M Magazine

Scroll to Info & Navigation

"It makes me sad because I’ve never seen such beautiful shirts before."

Perhaps you’ve heard that Baz Luhrmann’s “The Great Gatsby”will open this year’s Cannes film festival. WWD’s indefatigable executive editor Bridget Foley spoke with Catherine Martin, Luhrmann’s frequent costume designer (and wife), for M.

As for the menswear, with the pool of rentable men’s vintage suffering from overuse, Martin feared ending up with “all these sort of lumpy, mismatching black suits.” She wanted “really snappy, beautiful silhouettes…That’s not to say we didn’t use secondhand pieces. But I just didn’t want the world to have that look, you know, like we’ve gone through a secondhand shop and just bought everything and nothing quite fits.”

The Brooks Brothers pairing was a natural one; Fitzgerald  was consumed with matters of style. Patrician of bone structure, if not birth, in his famous Scribner’s book portrait, he looks as debonair as an Arrow Collar man. But his shirts were from Brooks Brothers. He associated the clothier, founded in New York in 1818, with breeding and arrival, and often identified his characters as dressing from the firm.

Martin approached Arthur Wayne, Brooks Brothers’ vice president of global public relations, and asked if the firm would make her designs for the background actors. The initial goal: eveningwear with that “crispness” essential to her vision. To that end, she and the Brooks Brothers studio varied their evening fabrics, using different shades and textures of black, thus allowing for visual separation of the actors in crowd scenes. Along the way, she took at least one significant historical liberty, including navy for some of the suits.

“In the thirties, the Prince of Wales, Edward VIII, famously had a pair of dark blue tails,” Martin says. “He preferred them because he said you could much more clearly see the tailoring details when it was dark blue.”

In all, Brooks Brothers delivered nearly 600 background suits, both day and evening, as well as ties, tuxedo shirts, waistcoats, boaters, and caps, manufactured mostly in Brooklyn and tweaked by the Luhrmanns’ own tailor in Australia.

In-house renderings of Jay Gatsby’s pink suit from Brooks Brothers.

Notes

  1. meliss5 reblogged this from bicaba
  2. malua-natasha reblogged this from justaguytryingtodance
  3. when-in-eternal-lines-to-time reblogged this from madcrawford
  4. muninandhugin reblogged this from precious-little-things-i-luv
  5. cicinotouch reblogged this from womensweardaily
  6. snido reblogged this from godzillarockets
  7. godzillarockets reblogged this from rosebudandcupcakez
  8. pinkiprincess reblogged this from fancyfreehighsociety
  9. mynameiskmc reblogged this from belleinpearls
  10. mericamary reblogged this from belleinpearls
  11. belleinpearls reblogged this from omigodyall
  12. madeincheltenham reblogged this from fancyfreehighsociety
  13. madcrawford reblogged this from fancyfreehighsociety
  14. omigodyall reblogged this from fancyfreehighsociety
  15. whaleprepped reblogged this from fancyfreehighsociety
  16. prepintegrity reblogged this from dani0020
  17. dani0020 reblogged this from fancyfreehighsociety
  18. ohmydama reblogged this from fancyfreehighsociety
  19. fancyfreehighsociety reblogged this from bumblebeesandsaltyseas
  20. shoutger0nimo reblogged this from womensweardaily
  21. eveningsinjuly reblogged this from mutantnotgay
  22. mutantnotgay reblogged this from thisweekalloveragain
  23. classyprettyprincess reblogged this from preppypersian
  24. style-studio reblogged this from womensweardaily and added:
    I can’t wait!!!! The wardrobe is going to be epic.
  25. sorunstheworldaway reblogged this from mrmoderngentleman and added:
    The suit porn in this movie will be astonishing! One of the articles of clothing I’m most proud of are my reading...
  26. thejasonliao reblogged this from mmagazine
  27. princesswestc0tt reblogged this from starryeyedandbowtied
  28. starryeyedandbowtied reblogged this from seashellsandpastels
  29. anatomyofthestars reblogged this from seashellsandpastels